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Kai's Over The Head Heel Hook! (Ft. Kai Lightner) | Beta Break Ep.12


Hi! I'm all right I had kind of a late start to the day because I had too much fun yesterday Um so I am 6 foot 3 and my wingspan is plus 6 or 7 actually depending on when I measure it and how tall I am at the time But I think that It affects my climbing style Because since my limbs are so long a lot of times I have to be really good at my body awareness and being able to use my feet and understanding, like sequencing in order to get through betas because my body type is so unique a lot of setters who are creating the climbs aren't my size or allot of sequences aren't necessarily set with me in mind so I kind of have to figure out my own way so I feel like even when I'm reading routes with other competitors I kind of always Convened in order to see what they're talking about, but also step out on my own because I know that every beta that I use is going to be much different than everyone else's Well when I climbed it I had no idea actually that Shane had set it for me Shane sometimes will talk to setters of gyms I go to behind my back So that like disrupting me Because that's like what he likes to do *laughs* But yeah I do remember the climb it was maybe like a couple years ago I've always used drop knees, and honestly it was never a skill that I learned It was actually something very instinctive because even as a kid being a bit taller than the other kids in my category I just like somehow found drop knees to be the easiest way to bring your hips into the wall I think personally all movement in climbing comes from the hips Because the closer you are to the wall The more positive holds become and the easier moves become or the more options you have to choose from in movement so whether that's having really open hips or being able to use drop knees or heel hooks or any form of technique that kind of helps you, you know be a better rock climber Well it's funny Allot of times when I read routes I don't really read them necessarily knowing all the specific movement I'll read I'll read it basically from where I need to be generally where my feet probably need to be so when I do heel hooks like that a lot of times it's really instinctive I can feel when I'm in a body position where I need something to pull my hips in to make moves easier and so, especially when you're clipping because you always want to be in a resting position when you clip so I guess that when I was up there I was thinking Okay these slopers aren't so good and the gym was really hot so maybe I need to find something better to get myself to be able to clip this clip and also because in domestic competitions, clips mean something, they're actually worth points so it's better to clip them lower than when you're higher up so that's probably why I found that high heel hook and put it there I feel like when you place a heel hook it automatically becomes the third leg it's like I feel like it give you so much support on the wall, you instantaneously are able to find rest movements and also it's just an easy way to bring your hips closer to the wall to make movements easier I think that heel hooks are the best climbing technique that you can learn as a climber because I feel like the power endurance and sometimes when I'm training Shane will force me to use less heel hooks In order to have more endurance, but as a general technique for competition I can't find any other thing because you can always use heel hooks no matter what kind of hold it is you're not reliant on a sequence that the setters set in order to use them you can place them anywhere I mean I feel like my thought process on that boulder is similar to my thought process on a lot of them because I've been competing so long and especially domestically when I know when I know all the setters Like I know allot of times exactly what the intended sequence is and also the sequences that I can fit in to make it work so allot of times when I'm looking at a move I have to think "okay" this is what is probably meant – this is what I'm capable of and these are my options and which one do I choose and I feel like most of the time I make the right decisions but sometimes I don't and I feel like that video kind of shows how I took a risk and it didn't quite pay off but sometimes they do But yeah it's like I have like three options in my head and I have to pick which one I want and which one seems more practical I remember I had like 10 seconds left on the clock and so when you're kind of in that position all betas kind of fall out of your head what is literally the quickest way I can get up there and so I was looking down and was like Okay I can probably reach the finish hold from these feet and that's what it really was I just climbed up and put my feet as low as possible and reached in hopes that I would touch it yeah so like, I don't know it's another thing its like "okay" I have like four options in my head which one is going to work I know which one they want me to do, but I don't think it's going to happen Follow me on Instagram! @kailightner ! 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Source: Youtube

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